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The Game of Lawn Bowls

How the game is played.

Lawn Bowling is played on a RINK at least 14' wide on a GREEN at least 120' deep. All Bowls must remain within the Rink to be counted. The target is a small round ball called a "JACK" and may be white or yellow. Bowls come in nine sizes (00 to 7); the heaviest weighs 3.51 pounds. The BOWL is biased and takes a natural curve. It must be delivered to allow for this curve, with just sufficient force so that it will stop at the Jack.

Teams are made with two, three, or four Bowlers. Two-person teams roll four Bowls each, three-person teams roll three Bowls each, and four-person teams roll two Bowls each. Singles is a contest between two Bowlers, each rolling four Bowls. Team positions (Lead, Second, Third, Skip) are assigned and each has specific duties. Bowlers take turns rolling the Bowls by position until all Bowls have been bowled.

The length of each Game is preset by the number of times the Bowls are rolled to the Jack. When all the Bowls have been rolled, it is an END and the score for each End is recorded. Each set of Bowls has a distinguishing emblem for identification of the scoring bowls and their owner.

Bowlers must have one foot on the MAT when they roll or "deliver" their bowl. The Mat is set at least 6'6" from the Ditch line. The Jack must be set 75'5½" from the Mat and is centered in the Rink. The Jack remains in play as long as it is within the Rink boundaries. A Jack may be WICKED into the Ditch and remain in play. The Bowl that hits the Jack is known as a Toucher, and it too remains in play. Any Bowl that reaches the Ditch without touching the Jack is taken out of play.

When all the Bowls have been rolled, all Bowls closer to the Jack than the opponents' closest bowl are counted. The Bowls are then gathered up and the same procedure repeated in the opposite direction.

Understanding the Sport

Principle Rules of Lawn Bowling

Lawn Bowling Etiquette

Lawn Bowling Terminology

Lawn Bowling Drills

Game Plans

Marker Instructions

Seven "Cs" for Top Bowlers

Short Bowls

Tips for Shot Selection

Basic Lawn Bowling Tactics

Self Assessment

Fun Videos

Practice Sessions

Understanding the Sport

The following questions with simplified and abbreviated answers are provided to help the spectator or prospective bowler to better understand the sport.

1. What is the object of the game?
It is to roll the bowl so that it will stop as close as possible to the jack (small white ball), or attain a favorable position.

2. Why does the bowl (not ball) curve?
While it is round on the rolling surface, it is not the other way. This means that it has a built-in curve toward the heavier (less flat) side.

3. How many are on a team?
There may be one, two, three, or four players on each side.

4. How does the game proceed?
In triples (three to a team), the first pair of opponents (called leads) bowl alternately; then the second pair (called vices) do likewise. Finally, the last pair of opponents (called skips) come up and bowl. Games usually comprise 12 to 21 ends. An end is played in one direction.

5. Is strategy important?
Indeed it is, but unlike alley bowling, it varies continuously. All bowls not out of bounds remain in play and must be taken into consideration.

6. Should a player try to hit or move the jack?
This may or may not be desirable, particularly after several bowls have been played. if a team's position is unfavorable, an attempt might be made to move it to a more desirable position, or conversely to block an opponent from doing so.

7. How is scoring done?
When all the bowls have been played, a team scores one point for each bowl it has closer to the jack than the nearest such bowl of the opposing team. Careful and exact measurement may be necessary to determine this.

8. What equipment is required?
Each player needs a set of four bowls, a case or bag for them, and a pair of flat-soled shoes without heels. Bowls must be between 4¾" and 5⅛" in diameter, and weight not more than 3½" pounds. Bowls of a set have distinctive insignia for identification.

9. What is the size of the green?
It must be between 110' and 125' in length. Most are square, providing play areas (rinks), for six to eight sets of opponents at a time.

Click here to view the Rink Layout.

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PRINCIPLE RULES OF LAWN BOWLING

NUMBER OF BOWLS PLAYED - Singles and Pairs are played with four bowls. Triples are played with three bowls and Fours (or Rinks) are played with 2 bowls.

END - An End involves the playing of the Jack and all Bowls of each opponent. An End is completed when both teams have agreed to the score or the End is declared Dead.

DEAD END - An End is declared Dead if the Jack has been hit by another Bowl beyond the boundaries of the Rink. A Dead End is usually replayed unless the Skips decide not to replay it or the written tournament rules designate that it not be replayed.

STARTING A GAME - The first End nominally starts with the flip of a coin. The Skip who wins the toss has the choice of his team bowling first or second. On each succeeding End, the Skip who won the preceding End has the choice of bowling first or second during the succeeding End.

PLACING THE MAT - The Mat shall be placed lengthwise on the centerline of the Rink at a distance no less than 6 feet 6 inches from the rear ditch and not less than 82 feet from the front ditch.

DELIVERING THE JACK - The Jack is properly delivered by the Lead as long as it stays within the boundaries of the Rink and, after being centered, is at least 75 feet from the edge of the Mat. If it comes to rest outside the boundaries of the Rink, lands in the ditch, or is less than 75 feet from the front edge of the Mat, the Jack is redelivered by the opposing Lead. If the Jack is not properly delivered, it is placed 6 feet 6 inches from the rear ditch, and the Mat can be placed at the option of the first to play provided the Jack is at least 75 feet from the front edge of the Mat. The Lead who delivered the first Jack bowls the first Bowl of the End.

POSSESSION OF THE RINK - The player whose turn it is to bowl and his Skip shall have possession of the Rink after the previous Bowl has come to a stop. The player in possession of the Rink can receive instructions from his Skip during this period until his Bowl comes to rest.

FOOT FAULTING - A player at the moment of delivery of the Jack or Bowl must have one foot entirely within the confines of the Mat. If a player, after one warning, continues to foot fault, an Umpire may stop the Bowl and declare the End Dead. If the Bowl is not stopped and hits any part of the Head, the opposing team shall remove the Dead Bowl and decide whether the head should be reset, remain as disturbed, or the entire End be declared Dead.

PLAYING OUT OF TURN - If a player bowls out of turn, his Bowl should be stopped and replayed in its proper turn. If the Bowl is not stopped and does not hit any portion of the Head, it shall remain as played and the opposing team shall bowl two Bowls. If the offending Bowl touches the Head, the opposing team has the option of allowing the Head to remain as disturbed or declaring a Dead End.

DEAD BOWL - A Bowl is declared Dead if (a) it does not travel 46 feet from the front edge of the Mat, (b) is not a "Toucher" and falls into the front ditch, or (c) at any time comes to rest beyond the boundaries of the Rink.

TOUCHER - A Toucher is a Bowl that in the course of being bowled touches the Jack before the next Bowl has been delivered. A Bowl is not considered a Toucher if it contacts a Jack that is resting in the front ditch. A Toucher is distinguished by placing a chalk mark on the Bowl. The chalk mark must be removed before the next end. If a Toucher comes to rest in the front ditch and within the boundary of the Rink, it remains in play and part of the Head.

MOVED OR DITCHED JACK - If a Jack is moved to a different position on the Rink or into the front ditch within the boundaries of the Rink, it shall remain in play and part of the Head.

HEAD DISTURBED BY A PLAYER - If a Jack or Bowl is moved or interfered with by any player while in motion or at rest or in the Ditch, the opposing Skip shall have the option of (a) having the Jack or Bowl replaced to its former position or replayed, (b) remain in its disturbed position, (c) declare it a Dead Bowl and remove it, or (d) declare the End Dead.

DISTURBANCE FROM BOWL IN ADJOINING RINK - If a Bowl at rest is likely to be contacted by a Bowl from an adjoining Rink, it may be lifted out of position and replaced to allow the Bowl to pass.

SCORING - Measurements shall be made from the nearest point of the Jack and the Bowl. If the Jack or Bowl is moved at the time of measuring by a player, it shall be restored to its former position by an opponent. If some measurements have been agreed to prior to movement of the Jack or Bowl, such agreements shall stand. The team having the nearest Bowl to the Jack shall score one point and one additional point for every other Bowl that is nearer the Jack than the nearest Bowl of the opponent. The score for an End will be final when both opponents agree and signal the score.

THESE RULES ARE THE MOST COMMON USED IN LAWN BOWLING; however, the entire set of rules should be read in the United States Lawn Bowls Association, Laws of the Sport of Bowls; 2004 Rules and Regulations for the United States Championships; third edition.

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Lawn Bowling Etiquette

Etiquette is about the customs and rules that govern social interaction within any specific environment.
For bowlers it is about behavior on the green and in and around the club.

A dictionary definition of etiquette is:

"The unwritten or conventional laws of courtesy between players."

Some of the unwritten guidelines are:

Be ready — always be on time for the start of play and for the start of each game.

Bowlers tend to start and finish a game with a handshake.

Visitors are always made welcome.

When ready to bowl, check with the next rink to see if another player is ready to bowl, so that you don't bowl at the same time.

First names are used on the scoreboard, club names if playing a visiting team.

Make sure that the path of the bowl is clear to avoid hitting another bowl.

Do not encroach on an adjoining rink when delivering your bowl.

Do not talk when another player is about to deliver a bowl.

Do not criticize bowls — either from your own team or the other.

Remember that your opponent has possession of the rink as soon as your bowl comes to rest; do not linger in the head and thereby obstruct the skips first bowl.

Take an interest in the game; follow how the head is building up so you don not have to ask other team members.

Do not walk around talking to bowlers participating in other games; allow them to concentrate on their own game.

Do not pass or walk in front of the player who was last to play — they have the right to see how their bowl progresses.

Help clear the head after the result has been determined.

Show a good spirit — win well and lose well.

Walk quickly when changing ends and walk within the confines of the rink on which you are playing.

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Terminology

Backhand:

The delivery of a bowl that travels towards the jack from a left-handed direction; i.e., the bias is on the right-hand side of the bowl (vice versa for left-handed bowlers).

Block:

A bowl resting in the line of the draw, or in front of the jack, thus hindering an opponent's shot.

Bowl in course:

The term for a bowl from the moment of the delivery until it comes to rest.

Covered:

When the jack or a bowl is guarded by another bowl in front of it.

Dead bowl:

A bowl is dead if:

a)

it comes to rest in the ditch (unless it is a toucher).

b)

it rebounds on to the rink after hitting the bank, or striking a toucher or jack in the ditch.

c)

if it comes to rest within 15 yards (13.71 m) of the front of the mat.

d)

if after completing its course, or as a result of further play, it comes to rest outside the boundaries of the rink.

Dead end:

An end is deemed to be dead if the jack is dead. The jack is dead when it has been driven off the green and comes to rest outside the boundary of the rink. All dead ends shall be replayed in the same direction (unless both skips agree otherwise) and the player who initially delivered it retains the delivery of the jack.

Drive:

A drive is a bowl delivered with force and with the intention of breaking up the head.

End:

An end comprises the playing of the jack and all bowls by all players in the same direction of the rink.

Fast green:

A green may be fast because it has been cut short or has dried out in sunny conditions. A bowl will take a WIDER curve and longer course on a fast green.

Forehand:

The delivery of a bowl that will travel towards the jack from a right-handed direction, with the bias on the left-handed side of the bowl (vice versa for left-handed players).

Four:

A team consisting of four players. In order of play, they are named the lead, second, third, and skip. Each player delivers two bowls only.

Head:

The head is the name given to the jack and all bowls that have come to rest on the rink, provided that they are not dead.

Jack high:

A ball is said to be jack high when the nearest part of it is equidistant from the mat as the nearest part of the jack to the mat.

Live bowl:

A bowl that travels at least 15 yards (13.71 m) from the front edge of the mat and legitimately comes to rest within the boundaries of the rink, is a live bowl.

Mat line:

The mat line is the edge of the mat nearest to the front ditch, it is from the center of the mat line that any necessary measurements are taken.

Open hand:

The side of play, in relation to the position of the jack, that has no or few bowls on it compared to the other side.

Open jack:

A jack that is in full view of the bowler from the mat and not obstructed by a bowl.

Pace of the green:

The pace of the green is measured in seconds and is the time a bowls takes from being delivered to coming to rest, approximately 30 yards (27.43 m) from the mat line.

Pairs:

A team consisting of two players, a lead and a skip.

Set of bowls:

A set of bowls consists of four bowls, all of the same manufacture, size, weight, color, and serial number (if applicable).

Skip:

The skip is the person in charge of the head on behalf of the rest of his team. He assesses the position of the bowls at the head and advises the next player what shot he should make. The skip is always the last player to deliver his bowls.

Take out:

A bowl which takes out an opponent's scoring bowl and often replaces it as the scoring bowl.

Team:

A team consists of either two, three, or four players.

The shot:

A shot (or shots) shall be adjudged at the completion of an end and is the number of bowls nearer to the jack than any bowl played by an opponent.

Toucher:

Any bowl which, in its original course on the rink, touches the jack is a toucher. Even if it touches the jack and then enters the ditch within the confines of the rink, it is still a toucher and is still alive.

Trial end:

Before the commencement of, or upon the resumption of a game, the players are allowed to play one trial end each way up the rink.

Triples:

A team consisting of three players.

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Lawn Bowling Drills

Weight Control Exercises

1.   The 4-Jack Drill.

Place one jack each at the far 2-meter mark and at each hog line, centering them and placing a chalk mark under them.

Place the mat at the near 2-meter mark. (If you are unfamiliar with the rink, you may wish to bowl 4 trial ends, 16 bowls total, to decide which side of this rink you wish to play.)

Decide which side of the rink you will play, and draw 2 bowls to the short jack, and 2 to the long jack.

Pick up the mat, place the 4th jack at the 2-meter mark you are leaving, and go the other end, gathering all 4 bowls there.

Scoring is simple: 1 point for every bowl within 1 foot (you may wish to increase this to 2 feet if the green is 14 second pace or faster); no points for anything else.

At the other end, for the play back, play the same side of the rink, again 2 short and 2 long, and again keep score. Now, in one round trip, you have played 2 short and 2 long on both BH and FH. Play at least 10 ends (5 RT's or 40 bowls). 10 RTs (20 ends or 80 bowls) is better but time-consuming.

Total up your points and calculate your percentage of success.

This exercise accomplishes many good things. It gives you an organized and purposeful exercise. It will identify any temporary weakness in your drawing. It will give you a baseline for improvement. It will give you confidence on the mat. Do this for at least a year if you aren't already doing so. Whether or not you persevere with this training, with time you will see what you could do in the past. When you get onto the mat in a crucial situation, you will have input on what your success ratio will be.

If wished, the weather and green conditions may be recorded. Environmental factors will affect the scores. The truly dedicated will also try to attempt to practice under adverse conditions, like when ill, and in rain weather. Major events are often held during adverse weather conditions. If your scores are significantly worse in wet weather, you need to learn how to bowl well in the wet.

2. Adding/Subtracting Weight.

Place/cast the jack somewhere beyond the hog line.

Roll your first bowl past the jack. (No penalty for a short first bowl, except that you must go down and retrieve it immediately. This will give you time to reflect on what went wrong in your computer for the first bowl.)

With each successive bowl, try to add one yard. You will see how successful you are when you go the other end for the return trip.

Coming back, place/cast a long jack.   Try to leave the first bowl short of the jack.

Try to take one yard off each successive bowl.

Advanced drill: Cast/place the jack. First bowl and third bowls slightly past the jack, second and fourth bowls slightly short of the jack. Personal variations are also useful. (Don't make this drill any easier.)

RATIONALE: In Drill 1, you are practicing the minimum and maximum original lengths. Any length in between will take care of itself. Drill 2 teaches weight adjustment on a relative basis rather than on an absolute basis.

3. Drawing - Reproducibility.

Roll first bowl approximately 80'.

Attempt to make as tight a head as possible with the remaining 3 bowls, using the same hand. (The marker should pick up any {and replace} bowls which may stop the delivered bowl.)

Scoring:

     Every bowl within 1' = +5 pts.

     Every bowl within 3' of the original bowl = -5 pts.

     No score for bowls between 1' and 3' from the jack.

     Total possible points for this drill: +15 to -15 pts

Repeat drill using opposite hand.

4. Drawing - GCL.

Set jack at approximately 80'.

Roll all 4 bowls, same hand. (The marker should pick up {and replace} any bowls which may stop the delivered bowl.)

Scoring:

     Every bowl within 1' = +5 pts.

     Every bowl within 3' of the original bowl = -5 pts.

     No score for bowls between 1' and 3' from the jack.

   Total possible points for this drill: +20 to -20 pts.

Repeat drill using opposite hand.

5. Yard On.

No jack, roll the first bowl approximately 80', it becomes the target.

Try to roll the remaining 3 bowls exactly 4' past.

Scoring:

     Jack high (delivered bowl and target are even) to 3' past = +3 pts.

     3' to 6' past = +5 pts.

     More than 6' past, or short of target = -5 pts.

     Total possible points for this drill: +15 to -15 pts.

Repeat drill using opposite hand.

6. Resting Takeout.

Place jack at approximately 80', with friendly bowls:

a) On the right, jack high, 14" away

b) 14" short and 14" to the right

Place opposing shot bowl 12" away o left.

Roll all 4 bowls on the forehand (for RH bowlers), attempting to rest the shot bowl with a yard of weight.

Reconstruct head after each bowl, if necessary.

Scoring:

     Take out bowl and stay within 12" of the jack = +5 pts.

     Take out bowl not within 12" of the jack = +3 pts.

     Miss narrow of the head or through the gap = +1 pt.

     More than 6' heavy, or don't reach jack high, or take out own jack high bowl, or miss
       everything wide = -5 pts.

     Promote own short bowl for the shot = +1 pt.

     Total possible points for this drill: +20 to -20 pts.

7. Min/Max Length.

Place one jack each at at the far 2-meter mark and at the hog line, centering them and placing a chalk mark under them.

Place the mat at the near 2-meter mark.

Draw 2 bowls to the short jack, and 2 to the long jack, on the right side of the rink (FH for right-handers).

Scoring:

     Each bowl within 1' of jack = +5 pts.

     Each bowl within 2' of jack = +3 pts.

     Total possible points for 8 bowls = +40 pts.

Bring the bowls back to the same mat position, and repeat, using the left side of the rink, scoring similarly.

(Skip the other hand if the rink doesn't play well - go to the opposite end and play back, using the good side which will be the opposite hand.)

8. Drawing a Position Bowl.

Place jack approximately 80'

Make a small chalk mark 6' past the jack and 1' to the side.

Make another small chalk mark 1' on the other side of the jack.
(These spots should not be visible from the mat.)

Roll 2 bowls FH and 2 more BH to the spots, attempting to be wide of the jack when passing it.

Scoring:

     1' or closer to the target = +5 pts.

     Narrow, through the head, or shorter than 3' from the spot = -5 pts.

     All other bowls – no score.

     Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

9. Drawing to the Ditch.

Place the opposing bowl at the 2-meter mark, and the jack in the ditch on the center mark.

Bowl to get the shot, either hand.

Scoring:

     Get the shot = +5 pts.

     Delivered bowl in the ditch = no score.

     Delivered bowl past the opposing bowl, but not shot = +2 pts.

     Delivered bowl short of the opposing bowl = -5 pts.

     Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

10. Occluded Draw.

Place jack approximately 80', and place a bowl in the draw on each hand, on the running surface and headed toward the jack, 4' short and 2' to the side.

Draw to the jack, stating your intentions as to whether the attempt is outside (wide) of the bowl, or inside (narrow) of the bowl. 2 bowls each FH and BH.

Scoring:

     Every bowl within 1' = +5 pts. (no penalty for touching the short bowl)

     More than 3' short or long, or "wooded out" = -5 pts.

     Bowls more than 1' away but less than 3' away from the jack = no score.

     Trailing the jack more than 1' = -5 pts.

     Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

11. Promotions.

Place jack approximately 80', and place a bowl in the draw on each hand, on the running surface and headed toward the jack, 2' short.

Playing 2 FH and 2 BH, attempt to promote the short bowl within 1' of the jack.

Scoring:

     Promote target bowl to 1' of the jack = +5 pts.

     Promote target bowl, but more than 1' from jack and not heavy = +2 pts.

     Miss bowl and hit jack, or promote bowl farther than 3' past the jack, or more than
       3' heavy, or short of target bowl = -5 pts.

     Miss everything with enough weight to reach target bowl and not more than 3' heavy
     = no score.

     Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

12. DRIVING.

Set up target frame at approximately 80'.

Drive 2 bowls FH, 2 bowls BH.

Scoring:

     Hit target = +5 pts.

     Pass between jack and either side bowl = +2 pts.

     Don't reach backboard in bounds - -5 pts.

     Hit frame of target = -5 pts.

     Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

NOTES:

Some of these drills are difficult on a fast green. Conversely, they can be very easy on a slow green. For practice purposes, the distances can be adjusted to provide a truer measure of success. On a very fast green (15+ seconds), some tactics, like the yard on or the resting takeout, simply do not exist and are only accidents when occurring in a game. Practice on a very fast green should be only drawing and driving, as no other good short selections are available. There are very few greens in N. American which exceed 15 seconds, but the southern hemisphere has many.

Practice in the U.S. should, for the most part, be conducted on the fastest and truest greens available, except for the firm shots (overweight takeouts and promotions), which optimally should be practiced on medium pace greens, 12 to 14 seconds.

OTHER USEFUL DRILLS.

DRAW TO A HIDDEN JACK is extremely useful mentally. It gives confidence when the situation arises. Remember, bowls that are short of the jack and on the center line are helpers, not blocks. Just like wide bowls which are considered "elbows" or wicking bowls, these short bowls help lead you to the jack.

SPLIT SHOT. (Sometimes, the split is easier than the resting shot. If avoidable, refrain from leaving your opponents this opportunity. This part of the strategy to play with a lot of bowls in the head, and to have these bowls apart from each other, so that one bowl can't turn them out).

DRAW TO A JACK MOVED OFF-CENTER is self explanatory. However, it may be useful, when able to use at lease 3 rinks, to roll the jack almost diagonally. Then, play to the jack wherever it is, using 2 bowls on each hand. This will teach you new ways to find your line and your length.

DRAW A POSITION BOWL TO EACH BACK CORNER OF THE RINK.

PLACE THE JACK ON THE PLINTH, AND DRAW IT INTO THE DITCH.

STANDARDIZED DRILLS

General Instructions: These drills are designed for two but can be adapted for one person. Warm up and find the rink's aiming points with a few trial ends. For the first three tests, if the first bowl doesn't finish within the target area, redeliver it. After changing ends come back using the other hand to your only bowling on one side of the rink. It is OK for the marker to signal a "target distance" with their foot. Always lift the jack or target bowl to avoid displacing a bowl in course.

Reproducibility Drill: Roll first bowl a medium length, close to the centerline. Do not "center" it. Using the same hand, draw remaining 3 bowls to the first. Score it, then remove the most recently delivered bowl.

Scoring: Each bowl within 1' of original bowl              = 9 pts.

Each bowl 1' to 2' from the original bowl       = 6 pts.

Each bowl 2’ to 3’ from the original bowl       = 3 pts.

Bowls further than 3’ away                          = 0 pts.

Yard-on Drill: Mat line at 2 meters. Deliver a short bowl. Marker centers it and all subsequent bowls. Using the same hand, roll each of the remaining bowls 3’ past the previous bowl. (Lift target bowl if it might interfere.) After scoring marker leaves the most recently delivered but removes the most recently delivered bowl.

Scoring: Bowls that finish jack low      = 0 pts.

Jack level to 2’ past jack        = 4 pts.

2’ to 4’ past jack                   = 6 pts.

4’ to 6’ past jack                   = 4 pts.

6’ to 10’ past                        = 1 pt.

Bowls further than 10’ past     = 0 pts.



Yard-off Drill: Mat line at 2 meters. Deliver a long bowl. Marker centers it and all subsequent bowls. Using the same hand, roll each of the remaining bowls 3’ short of the previous bowl. (Lift target bowl if it might interfere.) After scoring, marker leaves the most recently delivered but removes the earlier delivered bowl.

Scoring: Bowls that finish jack high     = 0 pts.

Jack level to 2’ short of jack   = 4 pts.

2’ to 4’ short of jack              = 6 pts.

4’ to 6’ past jack                   = 4 pts.

6’ to 10’ past jack                 = 1 pt.

Bowls more than 10’ short      = 0 pts.

Long-Short Test: Set one jack on centerline at the hog line and another jack two meters from the ditch. Place mat at 2 meters. Roll 2 bowls to the long jack and then 2 to the short jack. Marker records score for each bowl then removes it so it doesn’t interfere with the second. Coming back: reset the 2 jacks as before and use the other hand (i.e., use the same side of the rink both ways).

Scoring: Bowl comes to rest within 1’ of the jack                       = 10 pts.

Bowl comes to rest within 2’ of the jack                       = 8 pts.

Bowl comes to rest within 3’ of the jack                       = 6 pts.

If weight was within 3’ of the target, even though
    you were too wide or too narrow to get 6 pts.               = 4 pts.

More than 3’ light of heavy                                         = 0 pts.

Near Ditch: Place mat at hog line. Put a jack 2 meters from the front ditch. Roll 4 bowls.

Scoring: Bowls that come to rest jack high to the plinth            = 4 pts.

Bowls that come to rest jack low or in the ditch           = 0 pts.


Clustering:

2 Players - 4 Bowls each.

Match each other's bowls to within 1 foot radius.

Use a jack as a starting reference point anywhere on the rink.

Peas in a Pod:

•
Objective is to get 3rd, 2nd, or 1st shot.

Draw:

•



Draw around the bowls in front of the jack and get the shot.

Take-out Shot: The objective is to take out bowls, but to keep your bowls in play.

1.
•



2.
•

3.
    •

Weight Control:

Put a jack at each end of the rink, place the mat, take your stance.

Have a good look at the jack, letting your eyes take in the distance it is away from you.

Position your body and head to take the correct green line.

Close your eyes and deliver the bowl.

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SHOTS — BOWLS NEW ZEALAND

A pre-shot routine is essential for all shots.
Be able to play all shots on both hands.
For all shot play, always consider the risk.

1.
Draw Shot.
The aim of the draw shot is to finish as close to the target as possible.
The correct line selection method and bowl speed control are both critical elements of the draw shot.

Variations of the Draw Shot:

a) The Resting Shot. (a draw shot with a defined target)

Objective: To rest an opponent's shot (i.e., draw to the target bowl).

i)
Accuracy of bowl speed is the primary issue with this shot.

b) Position or Covering Bowl.

Objective: To finish in a pre-selected position for a specific purpose; i.e., to cover a group of opposition bowls at rear or side of head.

i) Back bowl - maintain the original line and increase bowl speed.

ii) On the head - wide of the center line, the player will need to change the line by altering the fixed point and thus the position of the feet, and establishing whether or not more bowl speed is required.

iii) Skip shows team member exactly where bowl is to rest.

c)
The Block.

Objective: Played deliberately to be short and in the way of the opponent.

i) Must be not less than 46 feet from the leading edge to remain alive.

ii) Used to get in the way of the opposition's intention to draw or drive.

d)
Drawing to a Spilled Jack.

When the jack has been moved by a bowl off the center line.

i) Adjust line from the original reference mark on the bank allowing for slightly less draw due to unused surface (going through new territory).

ii) Line up anchor foot accordingly.

iii) Calculate bowl speed required - remember to increase bowl speed if the bowl needs to travel over unused surface.

iv) Draw bowl as usual to new target.

2.
Control Forcing Shot. (1-2 meter [3-6 feet] through shot, trail)

Objective: Bowl is to enter or pass through target area with 3-6 feet of bowl speed.

i) To turn an opponent's bowl out of the count to improve your own score.

ii) To disturb a cluster of shots to turn own bowl into a counting shot or reduce the count against.

iii) Disturb a cluster to open an opportunity for a greater variety of shot options.

iv) To create movement of the jack or opposition bowls for own advantage.

v) To take jack to the ditch.

vi) To set the head for the next team member.

vii) The bowl remains on the rink.

Success factors.

i) The readjustment of line from the original mark.

ii) Bowl speed control ( a critical factor for this shot) - it is important to develop a mind set for the speed required.

iii) Visualize the desired finishing point 3-6 feet beyond the target and draw to that point.

3.
Firm Forcing Shot.

Objective: Increase bowl speed and deliver to target area.

i) To displace the opponents' bowl(s) out of the head to improve your count.

ii) To displace the opponents' counting cluster of bowls.

iii) To kill the head.

iv) To run the jack into the ditch.

Success factors.

i) Line - playing down a channel identifying the line between 1 - 1-1/2 feet wide of target.

ii) Bowl speed - important to develop a mind set for the required speed.

The bowl speed is less than the drive, this means that there is greater control during the delivery and this minimizes the margin of error created by excessive body movement.

— If the shot is played too fast, the bowl is often lost to the head.

4.
Drive.

Objective: Increase speed and reduce line and delivery to the target.

i) To remove the opponents' bowls for yours to count.

ii) To add to the shot total.

ii) To reduce opponents' counting bowls.

iii) To kill the end.

Success factors:

i) Bowl speed control is the key to successful driving.

ii) Consistent positioning of feet and keeping head still.

iii) Speed is created by the arm pendulum movement and amount of forward momentum generated through forward weight transfer and step length.

iv) Essential to keep body square and maintain straight line movement.

v) Excessive speed creates problems with technique and loss of control.

vi) Accuracy will be sacrificed if balance, rhythm, timing, and coordination are lost in the effort to create speed.

The speed and accuracy will be defined by the control and ability of the player.

— Line selection needs to be accurate.

— Speed to suit the ability of the player.

Remember the basics:

a) Hold bowl correctly and comfortably.

b) Identify the line of delivery from 3 feet behind the mat (pre-shot routine). (For the reference line, it is possible to use bowls positioned on the head. This will differ from person-to-person and depend on the speed of delivery required.)

c) In deciding which hand to play, the general rule is — play forehand for any target right of the center line and backhand for any target left of the center line.

d) Ensure anchor foot is placed correctly on the mat — aim along the line the bowl is to be bowled and determine the focus point.

e) Delivery technique — free flowing, rhythmic movement, balanced and coordinated.

f) Control bowl speed.

g) Follow through and watch the bowl travel over the focus point along the intended line.

h) Always move and step FORWARD to allow full weight transfer.

Return

Game Plans
Rick Dickson — February 2006

    Game plans are all about planning to win because:

The virtues of a pre-planned match strategy is that a bowler starts with a positive idea.

The plan gives a gauge of how you progress.

Control of the game is done by taking advantage of having the % advantage.

Practice and play minimum and maximum lengths to be comparable/competitive to the best bowlers.

Plan to optimize your mental and tactical skills before looking at the opposition.

Do not be greedy.

Learning from your losses is all part of the plan.

You pace yourself for your match; it is the final score at the end that counts and games are won through persistence.

Game plan preparation strategy probably should entail these broad points:

Win majority of ends.

Play either maximum or minimum length.

Set mat on 2 meter mark at one end constantly.

Minimum of 2 bowls ALWAYS in head every end (1 bowl if playing 2 bowls games).

DO NOT widen the head when holding shots.

Minimize ends lost to one point, or at very worst, 2 points an end.

Don't be greedy.

Don't change a winning game, be aware of the success of the plan and keep to it.

Choose and stay with a set mat location when winning well.

If the opposition in winning, the plan options become: mat location, use of hand, length choice, change of shots previously employed.

Return

Marker Instructions

Your job is to set the jack, mark touchers, remove dead bowls to the bank, and answer questions briefly. Do not volunteer information to players.

Wear whites and have Toucha or chalk and a measuring tape.

Carefully note the emblem on each player's bowls before play begins.

If the players want you to keep the score, wait for them to make a decision about the score, then record it, announcing to each player the score after each end.

Players usually prefer to do their own measuring, but you may be asked to measure for them.

Stand at least two meters behind the jack and two feet to the side of center during play. Don't obscure rink markers.

When asked for information, answer briefly. (Example: Am I up? Yes or No. How many? One. Am I jack high? Yes or No.)

Unless one bowl is clearly closer to the jack than the opponent's, indicate that it is a measure in order to avoid making an error and providing false information.

Do not let yourself be distracted from the game you are marking. Being a marker requires constant attention to the head and to the players.

Do not make a judgment about whether or not the jack is long enough. Only the player should question this, and they may not want to do so.

Assist the players in aligning the jack when it is delivered, and, if requested, aligning the mat.

Be careful to note touchers and mark them immediately. This requires special discipline when a drive explodes the head.

Resist your natural curiosity about who is holding shot. Never move towards the head to see what changes have taken place unless the player in possession of the mat requests information.

There will be an umpire for each green; only the players may ask for the assistance of an umpire.

At the end of each game, report to the head marker for your next rink assignment.

Return

Seven "Cs" in Top Bowlers

The similarities among top bowlers exist more in temperament than in their delivery techniques.

Components of temperament may be stated in terms of seven "Cs".

Concentration:

is the ability to narrow one's focus to factors of immediate importance, and to ignore distractions.

Confidence:

is the outcome of positive self-affirmation, and of achieving improving personal bests rather than winning at all costs.

Commitment:

is the will to set goals for practice and competition.

Calmness:

is the ability to neutralize stress in tight situations.

Creativity:

is about seeing the ideal shot, and to recognize tactical opportunities.

Common sense:

is the capacity to make intelligent corrections to poor deliveries, and to avoid destructive bickering with team mates.

Consistency:

is about avoiding variations to controlled technique when faced with a difficult shot or during the excitement of competition.

Return

Short Bowls — Symbols of Defeat

They shut the entrances to the head.

Instead of being positional assets, they become encumbrances to the side or individual.

Such bowls, if very short, seldom get knocked up and prevent the skip driving into position.

One at the back is worth 10 in the way, as not a jack in 100 comes forwards when struck.

Short bowls are a distinct menace and handicap to a versatile skip.

The game embraces 'ports' that have to be navigated by the last bowl of an end.

Return

Tips for Shot Selection, Tactics & Playing Shots

SIMPLICITY: The easier shot is usually the right shot to play.

SCOREBOARD GUIDANCE: The scoreboard sometimes dictates that the conservative or alternatively — the gambling shot, is the one to play.

STRENGTH AND WEAKNESS: Play to your own strength and your opponent's weakness. Your best guide is your own team's performance on that day, as well as that of your opponent's.

BEATING TOUCHERS: In singles, pairs, triples, and fours, the best response a front toucher is to get one close to cut down a possible big count but to increase your shot options on subsequent bowls. There are a variety of possibilities for using a close bowl in front, at the side, or behind the jack.

DITCH DRAWING: With the jack in the ditch, don't draw close to the ditch with your last bowl, just draw to a point past your opponent's nearest bowl.

OPPOSING THOUGHT: That shot your opponents don't want you to play is usually the shot that you are looking for. So put yourself in their shoes and think from their point of view.

LATE STAGES: Late in the game, particularly on the last end, in a straight choice between a "dead draw" and a firing shot inside with shot against, chose the weight shot. There are usually more options for a favorable outcome to occur.

WHICH HAND: If both hands are equally true, choose the tighter hand, because in percentage terms, it should be easier to play.

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1.	What is the object of the game? It is to roll the bowl so that it will stop as close as possible to the jack (small white ball), or attain a favorable position.
2.	Why does the bowl (not ball) curve? While it is round on the rolling surface, it is not the other way. This means that it has a built-in curve toward the heavier (less flat) side.
3.	How many are on a team? There may be one, two, three, or four players on each side.
4.	How does the game proceed? In triples (three to a team), the first pair of opponents (called leads) bowl alternately; then the second pair (called vices) do likewise. Finally, the last pair of opponents (called skips) come up and bowl. Games usually comprise 12 to 21 ends. An end is played in one direction.
5.	Is strategy important? Indeed it is, but unlike alley bowling, it varies continuously. All bowls not out of bounds remain in play and must be taken into consideration.
6.	Should a player try to hit or move the jack? This may or may not be desirable, particularly after several bowls have been played. if a team's position is unfavorable, an attempt might be made to move it to a more desirable position, or conversely to block an opponent from doing so.
7.	How is scoring done? When all the bowls have been played, a team scores one point for each bowl it has closer to the jack than the nearest such bowl of the opposing team. Careful and exact measurement may be necessary to determine this.
8.	What equipment is required? Each player needs a set of four bowls, a case or bag for them, and a pair of flat-soled shoes without heels. Bowls must be between 4¾" and 5⅛" in diameter, and weight not more than 3½" pounds. Bowls of a set have distinctive insignia for identification.
9.	What is the size of the green? It must be between 110' and 125' in length. Most are square, providing play areas (rinks), for six to eight sets of opponents at a time. Click here to view the Rink Layout.

	NUMBER OF BOWLS PLAYED - Singles and Pairs are played with four bowls. Triples are played with three bowls and Fours (or Rinks) are played with 2 bowls.
	END - An End involves the playing of the Jack and all Bowls of each opponent. An End is completed when both teams have agreed to the score or the End is declared Dead.
	DEAD END - An End is declared Dead if the Jack has been hit by another Bowl beyond the boundaries of the Rink. A Dead End is usually replayed unless the Skips decide not to replay it or the written tournament rules designate that it not be replayed.
	STARTING A GAME - The first End nominally starts with the flip of a coin. The Skip who wins the toss has the choice of his team bowling first or second. On each succeeding End, the Skip who won the preceding End has the choice of bowling first or second during the succeeding End.
	PLACING THE MAT - The Mat shall be placed lengthwise on the centerline of the Rink at a distance no less than 6 feet 6 inches from the rear ditch and not less than 82 feet from the front ditch.
	DELIVERING THE JACK - The Jack is properly delivered by the Lead as long as it stays within the boundaries of the Rink and, after being centered, is at least 75 feet from the edge of the Mat. If it comes to rest outside the boundaries of the Rink, lands in the ditch, or is less than 75 feet from the front edge of the Mat, the Jack is redelivered by the opposing Lead. If the Jack is not properly delivered, it is placed 6 feet 6 inches from the rear ditch, and the Mat can be placed at the option of the first to play provided the Jack is at least 75 feet from the front edge of the Mat. The Lead who delivered the first Jack bowls the first Bowl of the End.
	POSSESSION OF THE RINK - The player whose turn it is to bowl and his Skip shall have possession of the Rink after the previous Bowl has come to a stop. The player in possession of the Rink can receive instructions from his Skip during this period until his Bowl comes to rest.
	FOOT FAULTING - A player at the moment of delivery of the Jack or Bowl must have one foot entirely within the confines of the Mat. If a player, after one warning, continues to foot fault, an Umpire may stop the Bowl and declare the End Dead. If the Bowl is not stopped and hits any part of the Head, the opposing team shall remove the Dead Bowl and decide whether the head should be reset, remain as disturbed, or the entire End be declared Dead.
	PLAYING OUT OF TURN - If a player bowls out of turn, his Bowl should be stopped and replayed in its proper turn. If the Bowl is not stopped and does not hit any portion of the Head, it shall remain as played and the opposing team shall bowl two Bowls. If the offending Bowl touches the Head, the opposing team has the option of allowing the Head to remain as disturbed or declaring a Dead End.
	DEAD BOWL - A Bowl is declared Dead if (a) it does not travel 46 feet from the front edge of the Mat, (b) is not a "Toucher" and falls into the front ditch, or (c) at any time comes to rest beyond the boundaries of the Rink.
	TOUCHER - A Toucher is a Bowl that in the course of being bowled touches the Jack before the next Bowl has been delivered. A Bowl is not considered a Toucher if it contacts a Jack that is resting in the front ditch. A Toucher is distinguished by placing a chalk mark on the Bowl. The chalk mark must be removed before the next end. If a Toucher comes to rest in the front ditch and within the boundary of the Rink, it remains in play and part of the Head.
	MOVED OR DITCHED JACK - If a Jack is moved to a different position on the Rink or into the front ditch within the boundaries of the Rink, it shall remain in play and part of the Head.
	HEAD DISTURBED BY A PLAYER - If a Jack or Bowl is moved or interfered with by any player while in motion or at rest or in the Ditch, the opposing Skip shall have the option of (a) having the Jack or Bowl replaced to its former position or replayed, (b) remain in its disturbed position, (c) declare it a Dead Bowl and remove it, or (d) declare the End Dead.
	DISTURBANCE FROM BOWL IN ADJOINING RINK - If a Bowl at rest is likely to be contacted by a Bowl from an adjoining Rink, it may be lifted out of position and replaced to allow the Bowl to pass.
	SCORING - Measurements shall be made from the nearest point of the Jack and the Bowl. If the Jack or Bowl is moved at the time of measuring by a player, it shall be restored to its former position by an opponent. If some measurements have been agreed to prior to movement of the Jack or Bowl, such agreements shall stand. The team having the nearest Bowl to the Jack shall score one point and one additional point for every other Bowl that is nearer the Jack than the nearest Bowl of the opponent. The score for an End will be final when both opponents agree and signal the score.
	THESE RULES ARE THE MOST COMMON USED IN LAWN BOWLING; however, the entire set of rules should be read in the United States Lawn Bowls Association, Laws of the Sport of Bowls; 2004 Rules and Regulations for the United States Championships; third edition.

	Be ready — always be on time for the start of play and for the start of each game.
	Bowlers tend to start and finish a game with a handshake.
	Visitors are always made welcome.
	When ready to bowl, check with the next rink to see if another player is ready to bowl, so that you don't bowl at the same time.
	First names are used on the scoreboard, club names if playing a visiting team.
	Make sure that the path of the bowl is clear to avoid hitting another bowl.
	Do not encroach on an adjoining rink when delivering your bowl.
	Do not talk when another player is about to deliver a bowl.
	Do not criticize bowls — either from your own team or the other.
	Remember that your opponent has possession of the rink as soon as your bowl comes to rest; do not linger in the head and thereby obstruct the skips first bowl.
	Take an interest in the game; follow how the head is building up so you don not have to ask other team members.
	Do not walk around talking to bowlers participating in other games; allow them to concentrate on their own game.
	Do not pass or walk in front of the player who was last to play — they have the right to see how their bowl progresses.
	Help clear the head after the result has been determined.
	Show a good spirit — win well and lose well.
	Walk quickly when changing ends and walk within the confines of the rink on which you are playing.

Backhand:	The delivery of a bowl that travels towards the jack from a left-handed direction; i.e., the bias is on the right-hand side of the bowl (vice versa for left-handed bowlers).
Block:	A bowl resting in the line of the draw, or in front of the jack, thus hindering an opponent's shot.
Bowl in course:	The term for a bowl from the moment of the delivery until it comes to rest.
Covered:	When the jack or a bowl is guarded by another bowl in front of it.
Dead bowl:	A bowl is dead if:
a)	it comes to rest in the ditch (unless it is a toucher).
b)	it rebounds on to the rink after hitting the bank, or striking a toucher or jack in the ditch.
c)	if it comes to rest within 15 yards (13.71 m) of the front of the mat.
d)	if after completing its course, or as a result of further play, it comes to rest outside the boundaries of the rink.
Dead end:	An end is deemed to be dead if the jack is dead. The jack is dead when it has been driven off the green and comes to rest outside the boundary of the rink. All dead ends shall be replayed in the same direction (unless both skips agree otherwise) and the player who initially delivered it retains the delivery of the jack.
Drive:	A drive is a bowl delivered with force and with the intention of breaking up the head.
End:	An end comprises the playing of the jack and all bowls by all players in the same direction of the rink.
Fast green:	A green may be fast because it has been cut short or has dried out in sunny conditions. A bowl will take a WIDER curve and longer course on a fast green.
Forehand:	The delivery of a bowl that will travel towards the jack from a right-handed direction, with the bias on the left-handed side of the bowl (vice versa for left-handed players).
Four:	A team consisting of four players. In order of play, they are named the lead, second, third, and skip. Each player delivers two bowls only.
Head:	The head is the name given to the jack and all bowls that have come to rest on the rink, provided that they are not dead.
Jack high:	A ball is said to be jack high when the nearest part of it is equidistant from the mat as the nearest part of the jack to the mat.
Live bowl:	A bowl that travels at least 15 yards (13.71 m) from the front edge of the mat and legitimately comes to rest within the boundaries of the rink, is a live bowl.
Mat line:	The mat line is the edge of the mat nearest to the front ditch, it is from the center of the mat line that any necessary measurements are taken.
Open hand:	The side of play, in relation to the position of the jack, that has no or few bowls on it compared to the other side.
Open jack:	A jack that is in full view of the bowler from the mat and not obstructed by a bowl.
Pace of the green:	The pace of the green is measured in seconds and is the time a bowls takes from being delivered to coming to rest, approximately 30 yards (27.43 m) from the mat line.
Pairs:	A team consisting of two players, a lead and a skip.
Set of bowls:	A set of bowls consists of four bowls, all of the same manufacture, size, weight, color, and serial number (if applicable).
Skip:	The skip is the person in charge of the head on behalf of the rest of his team. He assesses the position of the bowls at the head and advises the next player what shot he should make. The skip is always the last player to deliver his bowls.
Take out:	A bowl which takes out an opponent's scoring bowl and often replaces it as the scoring bowl.
Team:	A team consists of either two, three, or four players.
The shot:	A shot (or shots) shall be adjudged at the completion of an end and is the number of bowls nearer to the jack than any bowl played by an opponent.
Toucher:	Any bowl which, in its original course on the rink, touches the jack is a toucher. Even if it touches the jack and then enters the ditch within the confines of the rink, it is still a toucher and is still alive.
Trial end:	Before the commencement of, or upon the resumption of a game, the players are allowed to play one trial end each way up the rink.
Triples:	A team consisting of three players.

	Place one jack each at the far 2-meter mark and at each hog line, centering them and placing a chalk mark under them.
	Place the mat at the near 2-meter mark. (If you are unfamiliar with the rink, you may wish to bowl 4 trial ends, 16 bowls total, to decide which side of this rink you wish to play.)
	Decide which side of the rink you will play, and draw 2 bowls to the short jack, and 2 to the long jack.
	Pick up the mat, place the 4th jack at the 2-meter mark you are leaving, and go the other end, gathering all 4 bowls there.
	Scoring is simple: 1 point for every bowl within 1 foot (you may wish to increase this to 2 feet if the green is 14 second pace or faster); no points for anything else.
	At the other end, for the play back, play the same side of the rink, again 2 short and 2 long, and again keep score. Now, in one round trip, you have played 2 short and 2 long on both BH and FH. Play at least 10 ends (5 RT's or 40 bowls). 10 RTs (20 ends or 80 bowls) is better but time-consuming.
	Total up your points and calculate your percentage of success.

	Place/cast the jack somewhere beyond the hog line.
	Roll your first bowl past the jack. (No penalty for a short first bowl, except that you must go down and retrieve it immediately. This will give you time to reflect on what went wrong in your computer for the first bowl.)
	With each successive bowl, try to add one yard. You will see how successful you are when you go the other end for the return trip.
	Coming back, place/cast a long jack. Try to leave the first bowl short of the jack.
	Try to take one yard off each successive bowl.
	Advanced drill: Cast/place the jack. First bowl and third bowls slightly past the jack, second and fourth bowls slightly short of the jack. Personal variations are also useful. (Don't make this drill any easier.)

	Roll first bowl approximately 80'.
	Attempt to make as tight a head as possible with the remaining 3 bowls, using the same hand. (The marker should pick up any {and replace} bowls which may stop the delivered bowl.)
	Scoring:
		Every bowl within 1' = +5 pts.
		Every bowl within 3' of the original bowl = -5 pts.
		No score for bowls between 1' and 3' from the jack.
		Total possible points for this drill: +15 to -15 pts
	Repeat drill using opposite hand.

	Set jack at approximately 80'.
	Roll all 4 bowls, same hand. (The marker should pick up {and replace} any bowls which may stop the delivered bowl.)
	Scoring:
		Every bowl within 1' = +5 pts.
		Every bowl within 3' of the original bowl = -5 pts.
		No score for bowls between 1' and 3' from the jack.
		Total possible points for this drill: +20 to -20 pts.
	Repeat drill using opposite hand.

	No jack, roll the first bowl approximately 80', it becomes the target.
	Try to roll the remaining 3 bowls exactly 4' past.
	Scoring:
		Jack high (delivered bowl and target are even) to 3' past = +3 pts.
		3' to 6' past = +5 pts.
		More than 6' past, or short of target = -5 pts.
		Total possible points for this drill: +15 to -15 pts.
	Repeat drill using opposite hand.

	Place jack at approximately 80', with friendly bowls:
	a) On the right, jack high, 14" away
	b) 14" short and 14" to the right
	Place opposing shot bowl 12" away o left.
	Roll all 4 bowls on the forehand (for RH bowlers), attempting to rest the shot bowl with a yard of weight.
	Reconstruct head after each bowl, if necessary.
	Scoring:
		Take out bowl and stay within 12" of the jack = +5 pts.
		Take out bowl not within 12" of the jack = +3 pts.
		Miss narrow of the head or through the gap = +1 pt.
		More than 6' heavy, or don't reach jack high, or take out own jack high bowl, or miss everything wide = -5 pts.
		Promote own short bowl for the shot = +1 pt.
		Total possible points for this drill: +20 to -20 pts.

	Place one jack each at at the far 2-meter mark and at the hog line, centering them and placing a chalk mark under them.
	Place the mat at the near 2-meter mark.
	Draw 2 bowls to the short jack, and 2 to the long jack, on the right side of the rink (FH for right-handers).
	Scoring:
		Each bowl within 1' of jack = +5 pts.
		Each bowl within 2' of jack = +3 pts.
		Total possible points for 8 bowls = +40 pts.
	Bring the bowls back to the same mat position, and repeat, using the left side of the rink, scoring similarly.
	(Skip the other hand if the rink doesn't play well - go to the opposite end and play back, using the good side which will be the opposite hand.)

	Place jack approximately 80'
	Make a small chalk mark 6' past the jack and 1' to the side.
	Make another small chalk mark 1' on the other side of the jack. (These spots should not be visible from the mat.)
	Roll 2 bowls FH and 2 more BH to the spots, attempting to be wide of the jack when passing it.
	Scoring:
		1' or closer to the target = +5 pts.
		Narrow, through the head, or shorter than 3' from the spot = -5 pts.
		All other bowls – no score.
		Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

	Place the opposing bowl at the 2-meter mark, and the jack in the ditch on the center mark.
	Bowl to get the shot, either hand.
	Scoring:
		Get the shot = +5 pts.
		Delivered bowl in the ditch = no score.
		Delivered bowl past the opposing bowl, but not shot = +2 pts.
		Delivered bowl short of the opposing bowl = -5 pts.
		Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

	Place jack approximately 80', and place a bowl in the draw on each hand, on the running surface and headed toward the jack, 4' short and 2' to the side.
	Draw to the jack, stating your intentions as to whether the attempt is outside (wide) of the bowl, or inside (narrow) of the bowl. 2 bowls each FH and BH.
	Scoring:
	Every bowl within 1' = +5 pts. (no penalty for touching the short bowl)
	More than 3' short or long, or "wooded out" = -5 pts.
	Bowls more than 1' away but less than 3' away from the jack = no score.
	Trailing the jack more than 1' = -5 pts.
	Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

	Place jack approximately 80', and place a bowl in the draw on each hand, on the running surface and headed toward the jack, 2' short.
	Playing 2 FH and 2 BH, attempt to promote the short bowl within 1' of the jack.
	Scoring:
		Promote target bowl to 1' of the jack = +5 pts.
		Promote target bowl, but more than 1' from jack and not heavy = +2 pts.
		Miss bowl and hit jack, or promote bowl farther than 3' past the jack, or more than 3' heavy, or short of target bowl = -5 pts.
		Miss everything with enough weight to reach target bowl and not more than 3' heavy = no score.
		Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

	Set up target frame at approximately 80'.
	Drive 2 bowls FH, 2 bowls BH.
	Scoring:
		Hit target = +5 pts.
		Pass between jack and either side bowl = +2 pts.
		Don't reach backboard in bounds - -5 pts.
		Hit frame of target = -5 pts.
		Total possible points = +20 to -20 pts.

Scoring:	Each bowl within 1' of original bowl = 9 pts.
	Each bowl 1' to 2' from the original bowl = 6 pts.
	Each bowl 2’ to 3’ from the original bowl = 3 pts.
	Bowls further than 3’ away = 0 pts.

Scoring:	Bowls that finish jack low = 0 pts.
	Jack level to 2’ past jack = 4 pts.
	2’ to 4’ past jack = 6 pts.
	4’ to 6’ past jack = 4 pts.
	6’ to 10’ past = 1 pt.
	Bowls further than 10’ past = 0 pts.

Scoring:	Bowls that finish jack high = 0 pts.
	Jack level to 2’ short of jack = 4 pts.
	2’ to 4’ short of jack = 6 pts.
	4’ to 6’ past jack = 4 pts.
	6’ to 10’ past jack = 1 pt.
	Bowls more than 10’ short = 0 pts.

Scoring:	Bowl comes to rest within 1’ of the jack = 10 pts.
	Bowl comes to rest within 2’ of the jack = 8 pts.
	Bowl comes to rest within 3’ of the jack = 6 pts.
	If weight was within 3’ of the target, even though you were too wide or too narrow to get 6 pts. = 4 pts.
	More than 3’ light of heavy = 0 pts.

Scoring:	Bowls that come to rest jack high to the plinth = 4 pts.
	Bowls that come to rest jack low or in the ditch = 0 pts.

	2 Players - 4 Bowls each.
	Match each other's bowls to within 1 foot radius.
	Use a jack as a starting reference point anywhere on the rink.

	Put a jack at each end of the rink, place the mat, take your stance.
	Have a good look at the jack, letting your eyes take in the distance it is away from you.
	Position your body and head to take the correct green line.
	Close your eyes and deliver the bowl.

1.		Draw Shot. The aim of the draw shot is to finish as close to the target as possible. The correct line selection method and bowl speed control are both critical elements of the draw shot.
		Variations of the Draw Shot:
	a)	The Resting Shot. (a draw shot with a defined target)
		Objective: To rest an opponent's shot (i.e., draw to the target bowl).
	i)	Accuracy of bowl speed is the primary issue with this shot.
	b)	Position or Covering Bowl.
		Objective: To finish in a pre-selected position for a specific purpose; i.e., to cover a group of opposition bowls at rear or side of head.
	i)	Back bowl - maintain the original line and increase bowl speed.
	ii)	On the head - wide of the center line, the player will need to change the line by altering the fixed point and thus the position of the feet, and establishing whether or not more bowl speed is required.
	iii)	Skip shows team member exactly where bowl is to rest.
	c)	The Block.
		Objective: Played deliberately to be short and in the way of the opponent.
	i)	Must be not less than 46 feet from the leading edge to remain alive.
	ii)	Used to get in the way of the opposition's intention to draw or drive.
	d)	Drawing to a Spilled Jack.
		When the jack has been moved by a bowl off the center line.
	i)	Adjust line from the original reference mark on the bank allowing for slightly less draw due to unused surface (going through new territory).
	ii)	Line up anchor foot accordingly.
	iii)	Calculate bowl speed required - remember to increase bowl speed if the bowl needs to travel over unused surface.
	iv)	Draw bowl as usual to new target.
2.		Control Forcing Shot. (1-2 meter [3-6 feet] through shot, trail)
		Objective: Bowl is to enter or pass through target area with 3-6 feet of bowl speed.
	i)	To turn an opponent's bowl out of the count to improve your own score.
	ii)	To disturb a cluster of shots to turn own bowl into a counting shot or reduce the count against.
	iii)	Disturb a cluster to open an opportunity for a greater variety of shot options.
	iv)	To create movement of the jack or opposition bowls for own advantage.
	v)	To take jack to the ditch.
	vi)	To set the head for the next team member.
	vii)	The bowl remains on the rink.
		Success factors.
	i)	The readjustment of line from the original mark.
	ii)	Bowl speed control ( a critical factor for this shot) - it is important to develop a mind set for the speed required.
	iii)	Visualize the desired finishing point 3-6 feet beyond the target and draw to that point.
3.		Firm Forcing Shot.
		Objective: Increase bowl speed and deliver to target area.
	i)	To displace the opponents' bowl(s) out of the head to improve your count.
	ii)	To displace the opponents' counting cluster of bowls.
	iii)	To kill the head.
	iv)	To run the jack into the ditch.
		Success factors.
	i)	Line - playing down a channel identifying the line between 1 - 1-1/2 feet wide of target.
	ii)	Bowl speed - important to develop a mind set for the required speed.
		The bowl speed is less than the drive, this means that there is greater control during the delivery and this minimizes the margin of error created by excessive body movement.
	—	If the shot is played too fast, the bowl is often lost to the head.
4.		Drive.
		Objective: Increase speed and reduce line and delivery to the target.
	i)	To remove the opponents' bowls for yours to count.
	ii)	To add to the shot total.
	ii)	To reduce opponents' counting bowls.
	iii)	To kill the end.
		Success factors:
	i)	Bowl speed control is the key to successful driving.
	ii)	Consistent positioning of feet and keeping head still.
	iii)	Speed is created by the arm pendulum movement and amount of forward momentum generated through forward weight transfer and step length.
	iv)	Essential to keep body square and maintain straight line movement.
	v)	Excessive speed creates problems with technique and loss of control.
	vi)	Accuracy will be sacrificed if balance, rhythm, timing, and coordination are lost in the effort to create speed.
		The speed and accuracy will be defined by the control and ability of the player.
		— Line selection needs to be accurate.
		— Speed to suit the ability of the player.
Remember the basics:
	a)	Hold bowl correctly and comfortably.
	b)	Identify the line of delivery from 3 feet behind the mat (pre-shot routine). (For the reference line, it is possible to use bowls positioned on the head. This will differ from person-to-person and depend on the speed of delivery required.)
	c)	In deciding which hand to play, the general rule is — play forehand for any target right of the center line and backhand for any target left of the center line.
	d)	Ensure anchor foot is placed correctly on the mat — aim along the line the bowl is to be bowled and determine the focus point.
	e)	Delivery technique — free flowing, rhythmic movement, balanced and coordinated.
	f)	Control bowl speed.
	g)	Follow through and watch the bowl travel over the focus point along the intended line.
	h)	Always move and step FORWARD to allow full weight transfer.

	The virtues of a pre-planned match strategy is that a bowler starts with a positive idea.
	The plan gives a gauge of how you progress.
	Control of the game is done by taking advantage of having the % advantage.
	Practice and play minimum and maximum lengths to be comparable/competitive to the best bowlers.
	Plan to optimize your mental and tactical skills before looking at the opposition.
	Do not be greedy.
	Learning from your losses is all part of the plan.
	You pace yourself for your match; it is the final score at the end that counts and games are won through persistence.
Game plan preparation strategy probably should entail these broad points:
	Win majority of ends.
	Play either maximum or minimum length.
	Set mat on 2 meter mark at one end constantly.
	Minimum of 2 bowls ALWAYS in head every end (1 bowl if playing 2 bowls games).
	DO NOT widen the head when holding shots.
	Minimize ends lost to one point, or at very worst, 2 points an end.
	Don't be greedy.
	Don't change a winning game, be aware of the success of the plan and keep to it.
	Choose and stay with a set mat location when winning well.
	If the opposition in winning, the plan options become: mat location, use of hand, length choice, change of shots previously employed.

	Your job is to set the jack, mark touchers, remove dead bowls to the bank, and answer questions briefly. Do not volunteer information to players.
	Wear whites and have Toucha or chalk and a measuring tape.
	Carefully note the emblem on each player's bowls before play begins.
	If the players want you to keep the score, wait for them to make a decision about the score, then record it, announcing to each player the score after each end.
	Players usually prefer to do their own measuring, but you may be asked to measure for them.
	Stand at least two meters behind the jack and two feet to the side of center during play. Don't obscure rink markers.
	When asked for information, answer briefly. (Example: Am I up? Yes or No. How many? One. Am I jack high? Yes or No.)
	Unless one bowl is clearly closer to the jack than the opponent's, indicate that it is a measure in order to avoid making an error and providing false information.
	Do not let yourself be distracted from the game you are marking. Being a marker requires constant attention to the head and to the players.
	Do not make a judgment about whether or not the jack is long enough. Only the player should question this, and they may not want to do so.
	Assist the players in aligning the jack when it is delivered, and, if requested, aligning the mat.
	Be careful to note touchers and mark them immediately. This requires special discipline when a drive explodes the head.
	Resist your natural curiosity about who is holding shot. Never move towards the head to see what changes have taken place unless the player in possession of the mat requests information.
	There will be an umpire for each green; only the players may ask for the assistance of an umpire.
	At the end of each game, report to the head marker for your next rink assignment.

The similarities among top bowlers exist more in temperament than in their delivery techniques.
Components of temperament may be stated in terms of seven "Cs".
Concentration:	is the ability to narrow one's focus to factors of immediate importance, and to ignore distractions.
Confidence:	is the outcome of positive self-affirmation, and of achieving improving personal bests rather than winning at all costs.
Commitment:	is the will to set goals for practice and competition.
Calmness:	is the ability to neutralize stress in tight situations.
Creativity:	is about seeing the ideal shot, and to recognize tactical opportunities.
Common sense:	is the capacity to make intelligent corrections to poor deliveries, and to avoid destructive bickering with team mates.
Consistency:	is about avoiding variations to controlled technique when faced with a difficult shot or during the excitement of competition.

	They shut the entrances to the head.
	Instead of being positional assets, they become encumbrances to the side or individual.
	Such bowls, if very short, seldom get knocked up and prevent the skip driving into position.
	One at the back is worth 10 in the way, as not a jack in 100 comes forwards when struck.
	Short bowls are a distinct menace and handicap to a versatile skip.
	The game embraces 'ports' that have to be navigated by the last bowl of an end.

	SIMPLICITY:	The easier shot is usually the right shot to play.
	SCOREBOARD GUIDANCE:	The scoreboard sometimes dictates that the conservative or alternatively — the gambling shot, is the one to play.
	STRENGTH AND WEAKNESS:	Play to your own strength and your opponent's weakness. Your best guide is your own team's performance on that day, as well as that of your opponent's.
	BEATING TOUCHERS:	In singles, pairs, triples, and fours, the best response a front toucher is to get one close to cut down a possible big count but to increase your shot options on subsequent bowls. There are a variety of possibilities for using a close bowl in front, at the side, or behind the jack.
	DITCH DRAWING:	With the jack in the ditch, don't draw close to the ditch with your last bowl, just draw to a point past your opponent's nearest bowl.
	OPPOSING THOUGHT:	That shot your opponents don't want you to play is usually the shot that you are looking for. So put yourself in their shoes and think from their point of view.
	LATE STAGES:	Late in the game, particularly on the last end, in a straight choice between a "dead draw" and a firing shot inside with shot against, chose the weight shot. There are usually more options for a favorable outcome to occur.
	WHICH HAND:	If both hands are equally true, choose the tighter hand, because in percentage terms, it should be easier to play.